Fly Tying Group: At the Vise
Bead Head Prince Nymph
Al and Gretchen Beatty

(Originally Published in the Flyfisher Magazine)

The electronic tweeter and caller ID told us Dick Wentz editor of this magazine was on the phone calling to outline his needs for the spring issue of the FlyFisher. Al answered, “BT’s Fly Fishing, this is Al.” It’s always a good idea to keep a little professionalism when you are not one hundred percent sure who is on the line. We weren’t disappointed though because Dick’s distinctive voice responded to Al’s salutation. Gretchen picked up an extension phone so we both could participate in the conversation.

After the usual enquiry about each other’s personal well being, Dick got down to business, “You two have traveled and fished all over the world.” We answered in the affirmative. “If you had to choose one nymph that produced fish everywhere you’ve been, what would it be?” With only a little forethought Al answered, “It would have to be the Bead Head Prince Nymph. It has always treated us well.” Gretchen immediately agreed remembering the nice brown trout that fell for it the previous weekend. “I had hoped it would be your answer because it’s one of my favorite patterns,” commented Dick. “Let’s do it for the spring issue.” We agreed because it’s not a good idea to argue with the BOSS and it’s a darned good fly! He concluded his call with the usual editor-to-writer type topics, said goodbye, and hung up.

We just looked at each other for a bit after he signed off. “That’s a really easy fly to tie. It might be a bit difficult to really show anything on it,” commented Al. Gretchen came right back, “You remember how frustrated you would get when you were guiding and the commercial patterns would fall apart after only one or two fish? Let’s show how to improve the fly’s durability using the techniques we developed then.” “Great idea!” he responded and the plan was put into motion.

Before we tie this version of the Prince Nymph let’s talk for a minute about the pattern’s pedigree. California tier Doug Prince developed this nymph in the 40s calling it the Brown Fork Tail. In time renowned fly shop owner Buz Buszek renamed it the Prince Nymph. In the late 80s when the bead head craze migrated from Europe to our shores it was only natural to add a bead to it. We’ve always liked the regular Prince but have to admit the bead head version is much more effective for us. Note: In 1981 the Federation of Fly Fishers recognized Doug Prince for his contribution to the art of fly tying by awarding him the Bus Buszek Memorial Award

We’ve also experimented with different color combinations and found in some situations a florescent orange or green tail substituted for the brown was particularly productive. EX: On Colorado’s Gunnison River where the canyon walls are a deep rusty color an orange tail is particularly effective. On the other hand a green tail fills the bill on the heavily forested streams in central Idaho. Those of you who follow the late Gary LaFontaine’s Theory of Attraction outlined in his 1990 book The Dry Fly New Angles will know exactly why we use the color combinations mentioned here. Note: The Theory of Attraction starts on page 195 in that book and basically deals with pattern/environment color in relation to what fish seem to like.

Materials
Hook: Size 4 to 18, 2XL nymph
Thread: Black or color of choice
Tail: Brown biots
Wings: White biots
Rib: Tinsel, color of choice
Body: Peacock herl
Hackle: Brown
Head:  bead

Step 1: Pinch the barb, slip a bead on the hook, and place it in the vise. Apply a thread base from the bead to the end of the shank. Select two brown biots and tie them to the back of the hook “V” style to form a tail as long as the gape. Bind the waste ends to the shank while wrapping back to the bead. Clip two white biots from their stem and tie them to the hook pointing forward (upward because of the bead) adjusting the length to equal the shank. Trim any waste ends. Tying the wings in now and repositioning them later keeps them from pulling out at an inopportune time.

Step 2: Tie on a section of tinsel to later use as a rib. Tie several peacock herls to the hook by their tips. Bring the herls and thread together and anchor them with a clip (or dubbing loop tool) then form a loop with the non-material side shorter than the other. Wrap the thread forward to meet the bead.

Step 3: Rotate the clip in one direction producing a strand of peacock chenille with a thread core. Wrap the chenille forward forming the body and tie it off. Remove the clip and trim the waste ends.

Step 4: Counter wrap the rib then trim off the excess tinsel. Using this construction technique and the counter wrapped rib the body is darned near bullet proof! You won’t find a ball of tinsel and peacock around the bend of the hook after one or two fish on this fly.

Step 5:  Select a brown hackle and fold back the fibers. Tie it to the hook by the tip and wrap a wet style collar. Trim the waste end.

Step 6: Fold the wings back and anchor them with several thread wraps. Whip-finish and trim the thread. Apply a coat of Aqua Head to complete the fly.